Ashley Kemper is a graduate student at the University of Oregon, focusing on the intersection of fashion, sustainability, and environmental justice. With a background in fine art and years of experience as an Assistant Costume Designer, Kemper witnessed firsthand the unsustainable practices of the fashion industry. Her research aims to tackle the growing issue of textile waste and hold corporations accountable for their role in global pollution and inequality. Through her research, she is exploring how policies and consumer behaviors can reshape the industry to minimize waste, protect vulnerable communities, and promote ethical practices.
Fashion Waste and Accountability
At the core of Kemper’s research is the issue of fast fashion. Kemper says that “a large amount of our donated clothing that doesn’t get resold domestically, gets shipped and sold abroad, mostly to developing nations that do not have the infrastructure to deal with low quality garments that they can’t resell. This contributes to severe environmental justice inequities and contributes to pollution, human health problems, and ecosystem devastation.” She emphasizes that the U.S. and other Global North nations must take ownership of their waste, rather than exporting it. She says that, “We need to be responsible for our own waste problem, not put the burden on developing nations.”
This is why she is investigating Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policies, like California’s SB 707, which was passed in 2023 to address textile waste by holding brands accountable for the end-of-life management of their products. Kemper says, “This policy holds producers accountable by requiring brands that sell in the state to pay fees into a program that will fund better infrastructure for repair, reuse and textile recycling throughout the state.”
Environmental Justice in Fashion
The fast fashion industry disproportionately affects communities in developing nations, where cheap labor is exploited in garment factories. Kemper emphasized in her responses that the majority of garment workers are women who often face unsafe working conditions and are paid far below a living wage.
“There is a lot of work to be done here yet to demand better equity in this industry for these highly valuable skilled workers,” says Kemper.
The Sustainability Challenges in Fashion
When asked about the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry today, Kemper identifies a critical lack of brand transparency and the regulatory framework to enforce accountability.
Despite these obstacles, Kemper sees some promising developments, particularly with policies like SB 707, The European Union’s push for a Digital Product Passport (DPP) for textiles, and the Garment Worker Protection Act represent significant steps toward a more sustainable future.
Rethinking Sustainable Fashion
One of the most common misconceptions about sustainable fashion, according to Kemper, is the idea that people must only buy from eco-friendly or “sustainable” fashion brands. These brands are often more expensive and this mindset overlooks the deeper issue of overconsumption.
Kemper says, “I think our culture of constant consumption really needs to change in order to make the biggest impact. Spending just a little bit more on our clothes and buying new ones less frequently, repaired our clothes more often, prioritized shopping second hand, swapped clothes and upcycled older fashions, is the best approach in decreasing our reliance on buying new and living the most sustainable fashion lifestyle.”
Shifting consumer behaviors and attitudes away from consumer culture is an important step in enacting real change.
Taking Action
For those looking to get involved in sustainable fashion or environmental justice, Kemper advises students and professionals to start by asking questions. Researching brands’ sustainability reports, following watchdog groups like Remake and Fashion Revolution, and using your voice as a consumer to demand better from companies.
If you want to know more about what your favorite brands are doing as far as sustainability goes, publicly traded companies publish sustainability reports every year. Kemper recommends checking out Remake’s Report, or Fashion Revolution’s Fasion Transparency Index.
To learn Kemper says that her “exhibition in the spring will touch on these issues.” Go support Spring Term, week 8, Foyer Gallery in Lawrence Hall.
To get in contact with Kemper you can reach her hear akem@uoregon.edu
Autumn Straus 
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